There is only one version of this flywheel as standard, and fits all A+, Verto or Valeo (same type, different manufacturer) installations. And it’s heavy. Very heavy. Those up-rating power outputs in later Minis bearing this set-up were stuck with it. It is possible to shave a few ounces off this chunk of iron, but is difficult - especially for the DIY-er - and not cost effective when paying to have it done. Mini Spares recognised this shortfall early on. Sympathising with the plight of their customers, they produced a replacement outer section for the Verto kit from the same high-grade steel as used in the other light-weight versions. 

 

LB KG 

Standard Verto flywheel outer section only - unmodified 12.83 5.82 

Steel Verto flywheel outer section only 8.84 4.01 

 

See 'Flywheel & Pressure Plates - Effects of Lightening' for the benefits of lightening. 

 

Actually I lied, there are two versions of the above differentiated by the ring gear. One has a ring gear with 107 teeth on it for the inertia-type starter, the other 129 teeth for the pre-engaged type (piggy back solenoid on the starter instead of on the inner wing). 

 

- On performance road cars to help prevent fretting/fusing of the flywheel to the crank, torque the flywheel bolt up to 125lb ft. use only decent flywheel bolts - definitely no cheapy foreign jobs!! 

- On race engines the above procedure should be observed, except I always do this three times, rapping the flywheel with a dead-blow or copper mallet between each re-torque. May not be the ultimate, but I have NEVER had a problem doing it like this - and I've seen all kinds of rituals observed for this one!!