This is one of those areas where there is more than one way to skin the cat - depending on who you speak to. This is the method I have used for eternity, which has been totally reliable and never had a problem with. This only applies to non-Verto type clutches, as the Verto types are not adjustable. You just have to make sure all the operating linkage components are in good order. 

 

First off, ensure your operating linkage is up to scratch. For details on this, see 'Engine transplants - Clutch and flywheel'. 

 

Satisfied all is OK, you can proceed with setting the linkage up. 

 

1 - Remove/disconnect clutch return spring. 

 

2 - Undo throw-out nuts (15/16"AF nuts on outer end of plunger) lock nut and back nuts off away from clutch cover. 

 

3 - Undo clutch arm stop lock nut (7/16"AF nut/bolt situated halfway up arm screwed into clutch cover). 

 

4 - Pump clutch pedal several times then take up free-play on pedal - point at which you can feel the arm putting pressure on the diaphragm. 

 

5 - Adjust 7/16"AF stop bolt out until it just touches the clutch arm stop bump, screw the bolt back into the casing one flat on the bolt head then nip up lock nut. 

 

6 - Pump the pedal again a couple of times then press it to the floor and hold it there. 

 

7 - Screw the 15/16"AF stop nut in until it touches the clutch cover, screw it out one flat then do the lock nut up. 

 

8 - Re-fit the return spring. 

 

Setting it up this way should give the pedal a high 'bite' point, i.e. near the start of the pedal's travel. Adjusting the 7/16"AF stop bolt in towards the cover will lower this point. If the pedal 'bite' point is near the floor having made the adjustment as described, then there's something amiss. Check through the linkage for wear/breakage as detailed in 'Engine transplant - Clutch and flywheel'. Nothing found, it could simply be the clutch is worn out. It's well worth checking/changing the pedal to master cylinder clevis pin, as these wear very quickly.